Kaweco LILIPUT Fountain Pen Fireblue I Premium Blued Stainless Steel Fountain Pen for Ink Cartridges I Exclusive Fountain Pen 12.5 cm I Nib: M (Medium)

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Kaweco LILIPUT Fountain Pen Fireblue I Premium Blued Stainless Steel Fountain Pen for Ink Cartridges I Exclusive Fountain Pen 12.5 cm I Nib: M (Medium)

Kaweco LILIPUT Fountain Pen Fireblue I Premium Blued Stainless Steel Fountain Pen for Ink Cartridges I Exclusive Fountain Pen 12.5 cm I Nib: M (Medium)

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Price: £60.535
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My nib size is extra fine, and unlike some brands (TWSBI…) extra fine really means extra fine! The line is somewhere around 0.5mm, obviously depending on writing pressure, the type of paper you’re writing on, and the ink you’re using. For this reason alone, it’s one of my favorites since small writing is very easy. The nib is pretty firm, and not very springy so don’t expect anything crazy in a signature. Anyway, I fixed the sky, and the mod isn't so minimal anymore. XD And, because I did say that this was for educational purposes, I added lots of comments to the code, which makes the code look even more cluttered than it really is. Hopefully the comments do explain clearly what is happening at each step. Capped, the Supra is a tiny, chunky little thing, in the mould of Kaweco’s Liliput, but a much more usable diameter. It’s close enough to the Schon P6 to be a true size rival, and meaningfully smaller than the Sport. I personally don't like it that much, blue fire? doesn't make much sense to me, but, what can I do? It's a texture, and I respect the people who like it.

Kaweco Supra Fountain Pen - Fireblue | The Hamilton Pen Company

This is the interesting part of the story... blue coloring by annealing is well known to all the watch aficionados out there. Parts of the movement or the hands of the watch are blued by heating. Different temperatures resulting in different colors of the workpiece. And exactly this is how it works with the Liliput: In the process of annealing heat is applied for each Fireblue piece individually by manual labor. In color matching caps, bodies and sections are put together afterwards so every single Liliput Fireblue is one of a kind. I’m not sure about the Liliput and a converter. It’s not recommended, but it’s possible one could try the Kaweco silicone squeeze converter. This wasn’t my pen, so I didn’t. 🙂 With the Supra or Liliput you post by screwing the cap onto screw threads at the end of the pen, which is very secure. I did note that the screw threads seem to be longer than normal. It takes about three turns to post the Supra or Liliput, and almost four turns to cap or uncap either model.The Projects forums are only for projects. If you are asking questions about a project, either find that project's thread, or start a thread in the General section instead. I am a fan of these Kaweco stainless steel nibs. They’ve been very good out-of-the-box in my experience, but I like that they can be easily adjusted if you want to increase ink flow. I also love being able to remove them for cleaning, and to swap them into other Kaweco pens. Would it be possible to preserve the unique look by means of a few layers of durable transparent lacquer or something like that? Both these steel Liliputs have a nice heft, weighing a few grams more than the Kaweco AL-Sport. That’s a comfortable weight for me for writing, but makes for a solid-feeling pen that seems able to withstand the slings and arrows of carry-around use. In this form it’s definitely longer than the Sport when capped, but much more usable, without the faff of posting the cap to write.

Kaweco LILIPUT Fountain Pen Fireblue I Premium Blued Kaweco LILIPUT Fountain Pen Fireblue I Premium Blued

I look forward to hearing more about your lacquer experiments, sirgilbert (You are going to go through with these experiments for us, aren't you?!? It would indeed be wonderful if you had the time.) Extended, the Supra is basically a standard-sized fountain pen in length and width. Here is the Supra extended full-size compared to a Pelikan M205 and a Montblanc LeGrand (146 size). The finishing and construction overall feels great, a precision product. All the sections fit together well, seamless joins are really seamless, weight and balance are good (if you like metal pens). I'm wondering if there is anything that would react with the actual oxide layer that makes the metal look blue (among other colors obviously). If all of that is inert and doesn't matter, then there's surely a way to get this pen and then coat it to preserve the colors.Whilst I'm most definitely not saying that zscript is anything other than great, I feel that many people who don't have enough of a programmers head on their shoulders will find zscript too techy to be their goto modding tool. Take Nash's "minimal coding" example here: Yes" indicates that this pen can be converted into an eyedropper pen, which is filled by putting ink directly into the barrel. For instructions, see our eyedropper conversion guide. For "Yes - with Modification," see the Questions & Answers section above and the guide.

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